HAIR HAUL.

Guess who went ape-shit crazy?

So I bought a pair of shoes from Primark in Leicester (best Primark I have ever been to!) and they were on sale for £6, when I got home in London and tried them on, they did not fit. At all. Come Monday I decided to take to shoes back get a refund in Peckham and buy castor oil instead. Lets just say from the picture above that I did not stick to that £6 budget!

Jojoba, Castor and Argan oil

I literally screamed when I found these bad boys especially the Jojoba and Argan! I have been wanting them for ages! Jojoba is extra special because this oil is the closest to the natural oils that we secrete. It also penetrates the hair shaft and is great as a conditioner, it is antibacterial, moisturizing and helps new hair growth. And it is great for the skin as well, it has so msny more benefits. And best of all it was £3.49.

Castor oil is what my mum used to use when I was growing up and I had the longest hair ever! I personally think this oil stimulates the scalp and therefore hair grows much quicker and thicker. I have broken a comb or two trying to comb out the hair that has grown whilst my use of castor oil. This stuff truly works. It works so well everytime I go out to Peckham for supplies none of the stores have it, it is always sold out. I go to the same shop and the manager hides away one bottle for me, and the price for £1.99 is a bargain.

Argan (Moroccan oil) has been talked about non stop due to the "Moroccan oil" brand, which is packed to the brim with silicones and at £30 for a 100ml bottle, me no thinks so. And when I saw this little beauty I was so happy, Argan oil had ridiculously high levels of Vitamin E, fatty acid,Omega 6 and phytosterols (ah-mazing when it comes to healing scars, ezcema, stretch marks, acne and wrinkles), my hair after using this dried in about 2 and a half hours, no hair dryer( it died 3 months ago and I am not bothered enough to buy a new one), it is a over all great oil and I can wait for the strengthening effects to kick in. For 150ml of pure Argan oil ( and almond oil as a carrier oil, I checked the back for the ingredient list, always) the price is just wonderful, £5.49

Sweet almond oil and Glycerine

I love sweet almond oil! I use this on my face every night as it is great for dealing with hyperpigmentation, after shaving, it has reduced, nope eliminated ingrown hairs, I add it to my body butters for extra moisture especially now in cold weather. It is packed with fatty acid and vitamins, helps to protect against free radicals. Its just so lovely, and only £1.99 for 250ml, I will forever repurchase this oil. I love it that much.

Glycerin is usually the second or third ingredient is good hair products, why because it is an extremelly excellect humectant, it attracts water to itself. And it is more stable with water present, meaning that under no circumstances (unless high amounts of energy) is glycerin letting go of water resulting in hair being moisturized! Oh look, my Human Biology degree is being put to use! And natural hair treated with glycerin is resistant to premature breakage, relaxed hair isn't though. I bookmarked this old post from my favourite natural hair blog, she explains the science behind it all. Price is £1.99 for 250 ml  

Organic Root Stimulator Smooth n Hold Pudding and Coconut oil

I have been using this for a week and I am in love with this pudding! I luuuuuuurv. I tie my hair up daily in a bun and this has been such a great help especially when I have university lectures in the morning. Organic root stimulator smooth n hold pudding for starters smells lovely, like fresh cut cucumbers, it is light in texture almost like a whipped body butter. It feels just like a body butter and most importantly for me is that even though ORS say that is is a moisturising gel it does NOT feel like a gel. I would not touch this with a stick if it made my hair feel like a gel, you know that hard, stiffness, "dry-ish-ness", that plain gel nasty-ness! It is ridiculously soft, mega soft, no complaints on this baby. My hair is moisturised, looks shiny and healthy is sooooo manageable! I get a perfect bun in 5-8 mins which for me is an accomplishment on the scale of Nobel. The pudding does not flake at all and contains no alcohol. The ingredient list is pretty decent with water and coconut oil and the first two then Mineral oil, which is okay if added after hair has been moisturised as it coats the hair and stops moisture from leaving and entering. Then polyquaternuim-11 that has antistatic properties,holds hairstyles in place and also water binds to it. Gylcerin is fifth and I pretty much stop paying attention after that, it has avocado, almond, olive and jojoba oil present. I would strongly advise everyone, relaxed, natural or tex-laxed to buy this bad boy of a pudding. And for £2.49 for 368g of product I am definitely repurchasing this tub of MacLoving.

My last oil was coconut, if oils were musicians, coconut would be Beyonce. Why? Because she is King B (guess who is a fan?) Coconut oil helps with over all hair health because it penetrates the cortex and shaft. It reduces the amount of protein lost in hair, and protein results in stronger hair which is equal to less breakage and over all longer, healthier hair. It eliminates dandruff and gets rid of lice and lice eggs. It is high in Vitamin E and K and fatty acids that protects hair form microbial action which is the number one reason as to why we have hair loss. It has a high moisture retaining capacity which means it does not let moisture escape the hair and hair therefore moisturised and soft. The secret to longer and healthier black hair is getting the protein and moisture balance right and this oil does both. This oil is a conditioning, moisturising and strengthening oil and if there is an oil to start with this is it. This 500ml tub of coconut oil was £1.79

Africare Oil Moisturiser

Ok, so I have a confession to make, since my big chop I have been using a certain moisturiser that I was in love with, we were happy, It did what I wanted and needed but a couple of months ago I realised that the texture of my hair was getting straighter and straighter. I know it could be due to my constant brushing in the same direction but you know, I will probably have to cut it all off again. So I ditched it, and bought this little hunk a dunk. I have not used it before but I have heard good things about the brand plus the ingredient list was rather enticing, the amount of protein would be beneficial for my ends which are straight as a bone! They aren't damaged, pretty thick and healthy actually, hence the need to extra protein from the moisturiser just to make sure they don't break off. This is for my ends really, and it was £4.99 for 236ml

 Ingredients: Aqua, Carnation Oil, Propylene, Glycol, Pineapple Extract, Hydrolysed collagen, Hydrolysed Wheat Protein, Petrolatum, Jojoba Oil, Emulsifying Wax, Glycerol Monstrate, Methyl Paraben, Propyl Paraben, DMDM Hydention, FD&C Yellow#5, FD&C Yellow#6, Fragrance.

200 bobby pins.

I popped into the pound store got these, 200 booby pins for a pound. I cannot stress how important these are especially if you tie your hair up or need to bush it daily. They eliminate the need to over brush the ends of hair, and thus leaving for ends to grow and resulting in less breakage. When I tie my hair up I have a few stray hairs on my sides, you know near the bun instead of brushing them till they lie flat, I stick a pin in and job done. Ends protected.

Pack of shower caps and ok, I have completely blanked out as what to call them! 

I call them hair bands, they were a pound from Primak and notice how they do not have mettallic clips? Those clips break hair off like crazy, they damage the hair everytime they are used. So it is better and ultimately cheaper( 30 for a pound) to buy the ones with no metal bits on them. Shower caps were from the pound store and they are a pack of three. It is winter here so there is going to be a lot of deep conditioning going on. A lot! 

By the way this is my 100th post!

The Hair Chronicles...Neem Oil For Hair Growth (MN substitute)

My hair oils; neem, castor, coconut and almond.

These are all the oils that I use on my hair, I decided to show what exactly is going on with my hair and what products that I am using. I am in love with natural oils, they have so many benefits and are all rather cheap.

So the first in the "series" is Neem Oil- this is an Indian oil that has been used for thousands of years, it is used in making cosmetics, it is used as an insecticides, cures skin disorders, it is also anti-fungal, used as contraception, as an immune booster. This little bad boy has a lot to offer, the Indian lady at the store I got this from swore that it has boosted her hair growth.

I have been using Neem oil for over two months now, and let me start by putting a disclaimer out there! This stuff STINKS! Almost on the level of decaying flesh. When I first purchased it I happily poured it all over my scalp before a gym session. Error! Wrong! Computer says no! It stank so bad, my brother and sister begged me to wash it out. Three different shampoos and two different types of conditioner, my hair still smelt like death! It was really, really, really bad, I would rather go 6 months without washing my hair than a day with my hair smelling like that. Never again.

Now the positives, my hair has grown, pretty well. I trimmed my ends, about a inch off two months ago and I have regained it all. I must put a pic up some time. Seriously. Neem oil works, I will say that it promotes hair growth because it is anti-fungal. A clean scalp = hair growth. Fact. My scalp is also in really good condition, no flakes, no itching, no nada. A main point I want to raise is many women on youtube using MN, Daktarin, for hair growth, this oil will have the same hair growth results without the unbearable side effects, those damn migraines! I know this because Neem oil is used to cure thrush and jock itch, this is what MN is used to cure.  So get some Neem oil instead, its natural, may smell horrible but it is safer in the end.

 Hair is not breaking, now I know that I cannot say that this one thing is responsible for my hair growth but I would say it is a massive factor! I mix Neem oil with the other oils in the photo above because it requires a carrier oil.

HAIR BOOTCAMP

So this is a cut and copy from Lauren Conrad's website, thebeautydepartment.com. It has become one of my favourite websites of all time. She addresses all skin tones, all hair types, everything! I was and still am Team Lauren, and her website is another reason why I love her. There is a wonderful ombre hair tutorial that she did on the website, and many make up and hair tutorials! It is a must if you are like me and still learning the bits and bobs of hair and make up. Have a look.

Alright. This is serious. As promised, you’re all getting a free trip to hair boot camp this weekend. This is a post for those of you who asked for a hardcore hair health plan. If you don’t have time to do it this weekend, MAKE TIME! (That’s my best boot camp yell.) Look through these images and see which of these lovely ladies most represents your hair type. Once you find your number(s), follow the letter keys at the bottom. Do as many as you can over a weekend. Without a doubt, this little health boost for your hair will have you well on your way to shiny strands!

1. Naturally curly  hair: Weekend- A, B, D, E, H, I Regularly- K, M, O, P, Q

2. Virgin hair: Weekend- A, B, D, H, I Regularly- J, L, M (twice a month), O, Q, S

3. Color treated hair: Weekend- A, B, D, E, F (for hilights), G (blondes), H (brunettes/redheads), Regularly- J (blondes), K (brunettes/redheads), M (brunettes/redheads), N (blondes), O, P, Q, R, S

4. Heavy + straight hair: Weekend- A, B, D, H, I Regularly- J, L, M (on the ends), O, P, Q, S

5. Bleached or high-lift blonde hair: Weekend- A (only shampoo once with clarifying shampoo. if you need to shampoo again, use your regular shampoo!), B, D, E, F, G, I Regularly- J, alternate M + N, O, P, Q, R, S

6. Naturally wavy or frizzy hair: Weekend- A, B, D, E, H, I Regularly- K, L, M, O, P, Q, S

7. Beach hair or hair affected by weather: Weekend- A, B, D, E, F (if yellowed from sun + salt water), H, I  Regularly- J (if hair is colored) K (if hair is not colored), L, M, O (you can also apply spray-on sunscreen to your hair before going to the beach), P, R

8. Hair with extensions or a weave: Weekend- A, B, C, D, E, H, I Regularly- K, L, M, O, P (on your hair and the extension or weave hair), Q, R, S

YOUR WEEKEND TO DO:

A. Shampoo your hair with a clarifying shampoo. Focus on massaging it into your scalp using your fingertips and let it naturally clean the ends as you rinse it through. This will remove any film caused by product build-up or natural oil build-up. That film will be a dulling residue in the long run, so you need to remove it when you feel it. If your shampoo doesn’t lather, try shampooing it one more time. When hair is clean, it lathers. That’s when you know you’ve removed all the gunk. Good lather = clean slate!  Note: This is NOT something you would do every time you shampoo because it would be TOO cleansing and strip all the nutrients. Only do this once or twice a month.

B. Blend 1/4 cup olive oil, 1/4 cup jojoba oil + 1/4 cup coconut oil in a bowl. At night, apply a light amount to your ends and put it in a low braid or bun. Don’t soak it or you’ll end up with a greasy pillow! The size of a nickel or quarter will be plenty. It moisturizes while you sleep! In the morning, wake up and apply a more liberal coat from the middle to the ends of your hair. (Rub a little into your scalp if it’s dry! If you have an oily scalp, skip it.) Put it in a low bun for the day. You OBVIOUSLY want to do this on a low-key weekend because walking around with oil in your hair isn’t exactly… a trend. In the evening, shampoo lightly to remove oils and condition as usual.

C. If you have extensions or a weave, it’s really important to clean your real hair, so focus on getting in between the wefts with shampoo + your fingertips. Repeat if necessary until it lathers. Do small, gentle, circular motions with your fingertips. Not too rough or you will tangle the hair above your extensions or weave. Let the shampoo rinse through the ends as you rinse it out. It’s never a good idea to vigorously scrub at the ends of extensions or a weave. That can be a bad scene. Condition heavily from middle to ends. Avoid getting conditioner near the tops of the extensions because that can cause slipping. Make sure to rinse all shampoo + conditioner out from in between wefts or your scalp will itch.

D. Whip up this Kitchen Beautician mask as directed, put it on from roots to ends + put a shower cap or saran wrap over it. Apply light heat with a blow dryer. Let it sit for one hour. Rinse + lightly shampoo.

E. Check out your hair under a microscope. Rough towel drying can surprisingly cause damage. Try switching out your hair towel out for an old absorbent t-shirt! This is one of my favorite tricks for eliminating frizz!!

F. Shampoo for 2-3 minutes using a purple shampoo! Toning shampoo has a dark purple base and will cut out unwanted yellow-y or brassy tones. It looks scary and dark when it comes out of the bottle but don’t worry. Ask your colorist which one they’d recommend.

G. Ask your colorist or hairstylist to recommend a repairing protein mask. Protein masks are used to re-build weakened or chemically-compromised hair.

H. Ask your colorist or hairstylist to recommend a moisturizing mask. Moisture is much different that protein. Moisture masks are extremely important for naturally curly hair, virgin hair, and those with single-process color.

I. Apply leave-in conditioner! It helps detangle, seals down the cuticle, restores the ph balance, and promotes shine. Try to find one that’s weightless!

YOUR REGULAR TO DO:

J. Switch to a sulfate free shampoo + conditioner. To put it simply, they don’t strip the proteins from your hair. There’s no point to doing protein treatments if you’re just going to wash them out, right?

K. Use a moisture rich shampoo + conditioner. Curly/wavy hair naturally lacks moisture. It’s less about proteins for this kind of hair and more about retaining moisture. Maybe even try a natural or organic brand from your local health food store!

L. When in the shower, be sure to focus on shampooing the root until it lathers and conditioning the middle to ends. This will this will create the cleanest canvas and maximize volume for hair that’s straight or heavy.

M. Continue using a moisturizing mask once a week! It will soften your hair and promote shine. It will also help eliminate dryness that can lead to breakage.

N. Continue using a protein mask twice a month. It will strengthen your hair from the outside in and creates a protective protein shell in the long run. Great for weakened hair caused by over-processing!

O. Use a protective serum or argan oil on your ends before + after blow drying. Also great for eliminating frizz and creating shine when air-drying.

P. Every 8 weeks, go in and get a color gloss with your hair colorist or do a store-bought color glaze at home. I say it all the time and I think everyone should do this! It’s like a band-aid for the hair. You can actually extend the life of your haircut by doing this in between cuts. It literally seals down split ends temporarily.

Q. If you’re guilty of OVERSTYLING from blowing out or curling your hair every day, substitute one or two of those days with a non-heat styled updo, like a messy ponytail, the Ballerina Bun or the Fun Bun.

R. Invest in the best shampoo, conditioner and/or leave-in conditioner. If you’re spending a lot of money on a beautiful hair color, you want to make sure it lasts as long as possible and doesn’t fade. Most of the time, higher-end brands DO use higher quality ingredients. Find out what your hairstylist thinks will make the biggest difference. Try it out. Keep the receipt, because most high-end brands also guarantee their products.

S. Don’t spray hairspray before you curl or flat iron! You’re basically baking alcohol into your hair. Try your best to only spray after you use a hot tool of any kind. If you need the extra help with hold, use a thermal protectant spray. Any hairstylist will be able to help you find a good one!

Now, I know you guys want product recommendations, but like I’ve said before, you should try and get a recommendation in person from a professional! If you can’t make it in to the salon, I personally look to Allure for product reviews because they have the best break downs. Do your research + get samples! Just because a bottle is pretty and the product smells good, doesn’t mean it’s doing the best job. And last but certainly not least, continue taking vitamins for MAXIMUM hair health!

Xx Kristin

Tags: boot, boot camp, bootcamp, camp, conditioner, conditioning, hair bootcamp, hair repair, kristin ess, lauren conrad, moisturize, the beauty department,thebeautydepartment.com

©THE BEAUTY DEPARTMENT / DESIGNED BY BRI E

The Hair Chronicles....Traction Alopecia.

I must confess, I have suffered from traction alopecia. Sad, I know but everyone has their flaws. The worst bit about it is I know why the hair on my temples are doing a disappearing act on me. My weave, my lovely Premuim Now full fringed weave, it the cause of this horrible calamity!

 Traction alopecia is hair loss or thinning because the "tracks" of the weave, braids or any hairstyle is too tight and the scalp becomes inflammed and hair loss occurs. Inflammation of the scalp is usaully those tiny little bumps that occur after getting the hair braided and when you see little, tiny, white bulbs, those are hair follicles, it is safe to say that now would be a good time to start freaking out.

                                                      

 Now I have been weaving non stop for the past four years and my sides are currently in a good condition, they was a time when there was no hair whatsoever, zero, zilch,nada, cabbage patch bald! Here's what Ive learnt so far; Tell your hairdresser if your braids are too tight, make her undo the braid and do it again much loosely. How do you know if its too tight? Are you reaching for an asprin when you get home because the headache is registering 8.5 on the Richter scale?
 Under NO circumstances should you ever get your hair relaxed, especially if it is in a full weave. It is a waste of money and hair is the strongest when it is natural and if you have to please stretch your relaxer.Wait atleast 2-3 months before you go for a retouch.

 Shampoo and condition, many (even I) are under the impression that washing a weave ruins it, it doesnt, infact washing a weave and blow drying it will give a more natural and belieavble texture. Washing your hair whilst it is in a weave is very important, it gets rid of dirt and helps with hair growth(a clean scalp is a healthy scalp), I sometimes just slap on a conditioner for the whole day and rinse it a couple of hours later because hair is dries out really quickly and if the moisture is not replinshed it will become brittle and break, like a twig. Deep conditioning atleast once a week especially during winter(the radiators do not help either) when it is really drying for hair and skin.

Lastly an intense protein and moisture mix, this has literally saved my sides and I apply my mix every night. It is a mixture of coconut oil,olive oil, almond oil, (are you seeing a trend here?)water and Megatek. This itelf requires its own post. But moisturize with a natural conditioning oil such as coconut or olive every night, I am not a fan of Pink Moisturizing Lotion or Dark and Lovely Moisturizing Lotion as they have a large amount of Mineral oil( again, its own post).

My little magic potion

I WHIP MY HAIR BACK AND FORTH!

Last year I cut my hair off because I wanted to go natural and I was soooo determined to grow my hair. Well its been almost a year and my hair is amazingly thick and has grown really well. It did go through an amazing growth spurt when I was taking my Biotin, using my Aphogee and Megatek. I always have my hair in weaves but my temples are thinning plus I miss playing and styling with my hair so desite it still being winter I have my hair out. This year I will try to care and understand my hair and get it to grow past to my shoulders.